Birded the Santa Rosa/PecosRiver area Thursday 5/23/2013 with Andy Fenner and Jim Nelson-Moore.  Chose the area because of all the water available.  With much of New Mexico in a deep drought thought it best to look where there is water.  All the springs around Santa Rosa are still flowing.  Springs such as the Blue Hole, the Fish Hatchery southwest of town, and along El  Rito Creek.

As we passed Clines Corner there was a Ferruginous Hawk perched on a pole in the dawning light.  Hopefully it was looking to set up a breeding territory.

Started birding at seven AM at the MainStreetPecosRiver bridge in Santa Rosa.  Almost as soon as we arrived we heard an Eastern Phoebe singing.  After following its song back and forth under the bridge we had point blank looks at it on a snag just south of the bridge.  A great way to learn to identify a song is to watch a bird while it sings, that is just what we did with the phoebe.  Just south of the bridge on the east side of the river we ran into one of the odd highlights of the day – two female Red Crossbills feeding in a deciduous tree in a residential yard.  At this point the birds in the annual Santa Rosa vulture roost took off and filled the sky with over 50 Turkey Vultures.  Then another highlight announced itself, a Worm-eating Warbler; just after that we found a Gray Catbird.  A great day of birding was off to a wonderful start.

Followed the river downstream to a private (farm/ranch) where I have access.  I think the best bird in that area was a Common Black-Hawk calling and later observed at a nest.  Also there were Red-headed Woodpecker, Northern Cardinal, and a pair of Mississippi Kites.

Left the ranch and passed the trout hatchery west of the Pecos south of town.  On the river just below the hatchery were all three species of teal and a lone Willet.  The thick understory along the river was full of warblers, Wilson’s, Yellow, Black-and-white, and single American Redstart.

By the end of the day we had seen all three Phoebe species.  Willow Flycatchers were singing wherever we birded; in all we counted 15.

A good day of birding ended at 3 pm and all only one and a half hours drive from Santa Fe.

Santa Rosa List, May 2013

This year’s trip featured extremes in elevation, temperature and wind (usually not a factor on this subtropical route).   Because of the necessity of avoiding travel in Mexico during Semana Santa (Holy Week), we pushed the date 10 days later than I have ever run it.  Thus some wintering species had already departed but we were able to record some first timers that were returning north.  Of 17 possible Mexican endemics, we were able to locate 15.  Our species total of 266 was an all time high.

DAY 1:  We broke up our day’s drive from Nogales, AZ to Alamos, Sonora with an afternoon stop at Estero Soldado in San Carlos.  It is always great to get to that salt air after a long desert drive.  We hit a productive mid tide with various shorebirds and waders feasting on the abundant fiddler crabs.  A group of Roseate Spoonbills with adults sporting fresh breeding plumage was the highlight.  We also had a close look at a Large-billed version of Savannah Sparrow running along the edge of the mangroves.  We finished our drive to Alamos and our night’s stay at David and Jennifer MacKay’s great cabanas at El Pedregal.  Calling Western Screech and Ferruginous Pygmy Owls lulled us to sleep.

DAY 2:  We were off early to Rancho El Guayabo, about an hour east of Alamos, a part of a larger Nature&Culture International area called Reserva Monte Mojino.  Here, near the headwaters of the Rio Cuchujaqui, we were in foothill tropical deciduous forest.  Some typical TDF birds, including Happy and Sinaloa Wrens, Red-billed Pigeon, and Black-throated Magpie Jay (the icon of that habitat) all showed well but we were denied a look at a scolding (and skulking) Orange-billed Nightingale Thrush.   A Common Gallinule (Moorhen) seemed out of place so far from the coast.  The first of many Common Blackhawks for the trip gave us encouragement that this deciduous riparian species is doing well.

DAY 3:  Our morning was  spent at Rancho San Jose at the south end of the Sierra de Alamos (with a great view of a group of Elegant Quail enroute).  We were a bit higher than the previous day and were able to have great looks at Linneated Woodpecker, Purplish-backed Jay, and Rufous-capped Warbler.  On our way back to ranch HQ we were surprised by a Crane Hawk that flew up from a cattle tank and perched  in a mesquite.  I guess when it’s 98 degrees, birds will show up for water in odd places.  Later in the afternoon, while at the El Pedregal feeders, we were able to get good looks at Streak-backed Oriole, Varied Bunting, Rufous-backed Robin,  and Blue Mockingbird.

DAY 4:  On our way to the Navopatia Field Station on Estero Agiabampo, we detoured to the bay at Yavaros, a shrimp port south of Navojoa.  This is a vast feeding area for a myriad of coastal birds.   Dozens of Wilson’s Plover, hundreds of Dunlin (most in some degree of breeding plumage),  and thousands of Western Sandpipers were spread over the flats.  Our search for the declining Red Knot, however, went (wait for it) for naught.  Late afternoon found us driving through pitahaya cactus forest, a habitat being decimated for agribusiness, on our way to the field station.  The sights, sounds, and smells of the estuary during a memorable sunset were grand indeed.  After dinner, one client and myself ventured into the cactus stands and were rewarded with great views of an Elf Owl sticking its head out of a spine-surrounded hole.

DAY 5:  Prior to our morning estuary boat trip, we heard the loud clamoring of Clapper Rails coming from the mangroves and one birder managed some clear views.  With frigatebirds overhead, we headed to a nearby mangrove island to search for the recently returned Mangrove Vireo that the station director had been hearing across the inlet.  We swung and missed on that one but enjoyed the tranquility of a mangrove inlet on a windy morning.  Tino, our boatman, made the call to press on to a sand spit south of the estuary mouth that was home to a bunch of Blue-footed Boobies.  Downy nestlings, at widely varying stages of growth, dotted the sandbar.  Some obviously deceased chicks awaited disposal by the nearby Yellow-footed Gull patrols.  On our way back to the station, after zipping by a late Common Loon, we made one last foray into the mangroves.  Here a male Mangrove Vireo was singing away and gave us great close up views (along with an equally eye-popping male Mangrove Yellow Warbler).  Following lunch and our goodbyes to the kind folks at the research station, we headed southeast across the Sinaloa border to El Fuerte.  We stopped at one of three massive reservoirs in the area (Presa Dominguez) to view a Black-crowned Night Heron colony and rafts of wintering Lesser Scaup.  Night found us at Hotel Rio Vista overlooking the Rio Fuerte and listening to many Common Pauraques on the rooftops below.

DAY 6:  Leaving the lowlands on the CHEPE (Chihuahua al Pacifico) train, we gained altitude through spectacular scenery  on our way to the high country.  Following our transfer from the Bahuichivo station, we arrived at Hotel Paraiso del Oso near Cerocahui.   Entering a nearby pine/oak canyon we encountered birds typical of the area including Mexican Jay, Bridled Titmouse, Buff-breasted Flycatcher,  and Hutton’s Vireo.  White-throated Robin and Brown-backed Solitaire were present as well, recently returned from lower altitudes.  After dinner at the lodge we ventured out to hear the local Whiskered Screech Owls.

DAY 7:  We departed early for our destination at the bottom of the deepest of the 5 major canyons in the Copper Canyon region, Barranca de Urique.  First we traversed Mesa del Arturo-at over 7,500’- the highest spot on the tour.  While finding many of our sought after species in that habitat zone including Crescent-chested and Olive Warblers, White-eared Hummingbird, and Hepatic Tanager, we were able to only get a distant vocalization from the Mountain Trogon.  As we began our mile deep descent to the town of Urique, we called in a lovely Scott’s Oriole, the 4^th oriole species of the trip.  Once down to the bottom of the canyon, we dropped our gear at the Entre Amigos Hostal and headed north in a side canyon to Mescalera Chica.  Late afternoon turned out to be a great birding time as we reeled off a nice mix of species including Yellow Grosbeak, Flame-colored Tanager, Five-striped Sparrow, and Colima Pygmy Owl (a first for this itinerary).  As the activity was starting to wane, one of the clients spotted a pair of Golden Vireos.  Though I have seen this bird south of Urique, this was the first encounter north of town.  The area represents the only spot in the state of Chihuahua where this bird occurs.

DAY 8:  This morning we headed south to the village of Guapalaina and our hike into Arroyo Hacienda-a spectacular steep walled box canyon.  Great looks at Berylline Hummingbird, Squirrel Cuckoo, and Elegant Trogon graced our walk in.  Once in the box canyon itself, we found a territorial Blue-throated Hummingbird and a feisty Orange-billed Nightingale Thrush.  As we departed the canyon, a pair of Military Macaws circled several times, giving us great views, as they apparently searched for a suitable nesting site on the cliff face.  After lunch in Urique, complete with a fly by Common Blackhawk, we began our ascent-much easier on the nerves than our descent!  Late afternoon back by Paraiso del Oso, we found Slate-throated Redstart, White-striped Woodcreeper, Mountain (Northern) Pygmy Owl, and, after dark, several calling Mexican Whip-poor-wills.

DAY 9:  Before descending by train back to El Fuerte, we had the whole morning to bird the Rio Cuiteco just north of Bahuichivo.  Within a stone’s throw of town we encountered a mixed species flock that revealed both male and female Gray-collared Becard-a species that has a much jazzier looking female.  As we savored the moment, I heard the squeak of an Eared Quetzal and quickly fired tape in response.  A female came in immediately for great close-up looks.  Another first for this itinerary.  Further up the canyon, another flock revealed Red-faced, Townsend’s,  and Hermit Warblers and a Hooded Grosbeak, the Sierra Madre cousin of our Evening Grosbeak.  At a bridge crossing, we tried for Gray-crowned Woodpecker (where we had the first Chihuahua record in 2011) and a pair zipped right out.  I was thrilled that this species at the extreme edge of its range seemed to have put down roots here.  Nearby, we enjoyed a co-operative pair of Rufous-capped Brushfinches.  Our afternoon train ride down to El Fuerte was as enchanting as ever.

Day:  10  Our last day of full birding started out great with a group of Mexican Parrotlets in the trees above Hotel Rio Vista where we were staying.  As our hosts hooked up the boat to go out for our Rio Fuerte float, we had great looks at Orchard Oriole (5^th oriole of the trip) and a singing Grayish Saltator at the north extreme of its’ breeding range.  On the way to the river we had great looks at a singing Rufous-winged Sparrow (at the south end of its’ limited range) as well as a surprise encounter with a Solitary Sandpiper on a local pond.  Once on the river, we glassed White-fronted Parrots perched on cactus stalks (nice contrast).  Along the river itself, Great Kiskadee, Brown-crested Flycatcher, Social Fly catcher, and Vermilion Flycatcher all presented on prominent perches.  On the north side of the river, we searched the local haunt of Russet-crowned Motmot but with no luck.  Habitat degradation in the area may have been the culprit.  We were rewarded with great views of Rufous-bellied Chachalacas however.  Back on the river, we finished our float with great looks at Northern Jacana and Bare-throated Tiger Heron.  Next, we had to hit the road north to San Carlos.  Some late afternoon birding in the desert produced great looks at Bendire’s Thrasher-our 266^th, and last, species of the trip.  We rested up that night for our push back to Santa Fe the next day.

Flying from Quito to Santa Rosa on the southwest coast, we dropped over 9,000′ in an hour.   Once assembled in the van of our trusted driver Nestor, we were off to the coast.  Enroute, we were impressed by the dazzling red of a Peruvian Meadowlark, the chatter of Pacific Parrotlets, and the melodious song of the Streaked Saltator.  Once at the shrimp ponds, we counted hundreds of White-cheeked Pintails and had close up views of Wattled Jacanas working the roadside ditches.  At the mangrove estuary, we enjoyed the tour’s only encounter with coastal denizens with the highlights being Gray-hooded Gull, Cocoi Heron, and the always scintillating Roseate Spoonbill.

Peruvian Meadowlark

A short climb into the western foothills brought us to Buenaventura Reserve at 1700′.  A kettle of Swallow-tailed Kites overhead provided entertainment along the way.  At the reserve, we had close up views of White-whiskered Puffbird, Choco Toucan, and the rather scarce Chestnut-headed Oropendola-a life bird for our guide Marcelo.  After enjoying the lodge hummingbird feeders attended by White-necked Jacobin, Green Thorntail, and Violet-bellied Hummingbird, we were led by refuge naturalist Leo to a steep nearby ravine.  The muted sound of air being blown across an empty bottle alerted us to the presence of at least one Long-wattled Umbrellabird.  Patience (and the keen eyes of Leo) eventually rewarded us with great looks at this bizarre cotinga that the lodge is named after.

Long-wattled Umbrellabird

The following morning brought intermittent rain but we managed to watch a pair of Chestnut-backed Antbirds and a rather stoic Highland Monkey.  We left the forest and drove to a higher, more open part of the preserve to wait at an active nest box used by the endangered El Oro Parakeet.  Following a half hour vigil, we saw a group of parakeets fly over a nearby ridge.  Soon the flock landed right in front of us in the nest box tree affording us superb views.  Heading back to the lodge we viewed a Red-faced Spinetail “apartment”-a large communal nest with entrances at both top and bottom.

El Oro Parakeets at Nestbox

Next day, we were off to a vastly different part of Ecuador, the dry Tumbesian region on the southwest border with Peru.  Our lunch stop on a ridge near Chaguarpamba proved to be the road birding highlight of the day.  Having entered a zone where songbirds responded to Peruvian Pygmy Owl tape, we lured in a compliant assembly to several leafless trees below us.  The bird smorgasbord included groups of Swallow Tanagers, Saffron Finches, Bay-headed Tanagers, Ecuadorian Thrushes and a pod of rare Saffron Siskins.  Truly Christmas come early!  Later in the afternoon on yet another twisting mountain highway, Marcelo heard a pair of Gray-cheeked Parakeets which we stopped to observe along with a pair of One-colored Becards at a nest.  After we passed Catacocha, another side road revealed a Whooping (Blue-crowned) Motmot and the winner of “the cute bird of the trip award”-an Ecuadorian Piculet.  We reached Jorupe Reserve (2,100′), in the land of giant ceiba trees, as night fell and the clear whistles of the Pale-browed Tinamous faded.

Whooping Motmot

Morning at the Urraca Lodge got us off to a quick start.  In the predawn darkness a pair of Spectacled Owls called close to our cabins.  As we ate breakfast, we watched a diverse mob at the feeding station which included Red-Masked Parakeets, Ochre-bellied Doves, and the impressive White-tailed Jays (quite reminiscent of the Tufted Jay from West Mexico).  Birding up the road on foot, we quickly found Tawny-crowned Pygmy Tyrant, Ecuadorian Trogon and the “muy guapo” Collared Antshrike.  Several Watkin’s Antpittas were calling nearby and our local guide Jorge persistently kept peering into the understory.  He finally spotted a bird, surprisingly 4′ off the ground, and we all managed scope views of the upper third of the bird’s body.  Amazing how such a loud bird can be so close and still remain invisible.  Soon the sun (yes it does exist in Ecuador) drove us to a rest period but we revived in the late afternoon for another outing which produced both White-edged and Yellow-tailed Orioles, Baird’s Flycatcher, and a close Laughing Falcon.  We ended the day with our whole group (after 25 minutes) getting a look at one of the many Pale-browed Tinamous calling near the cabins.

Red-masked Parakeets at Jorupe Reserve

The longest travel day of the trip faced us so we were packed and in the van by 6am.  Heading northeast, we took our last look at Peruvian soil just across the river (no montruous border fences down here).  Elevation change came fast and furious-over a 5,000′  gain by mid morning.  As we approached the Jocotoco Foundation’s Utuana Preserve at 8,400′, we enjoyed some fast paced roadside birding.  Silver-backed Tanagers gave us repeated looks while a Gray-browed Brushfinch only gave us a sunlit glimpse.  Both male and female Chapman’s Antshrike showed well-somewhat surprising to have an antshrike at this altitude!  Black-cowled Saltator lurked in several spots and most everyone finally had decent views of this southern Ecuador specialty.  Moving along a high ridge into Utuana we experienced brilliant sun and low bird activity.  The reserve hummingbird feeders gave us lengthy views of the jaw-dropping Rainbow Starfrontlet and the more subtle but equally impressive Purple-throated Sunangel.  Our efforts to find Black-crested Tit Tyrant didn’t work out but in the process we had looks at Jelski’s Chat Tyrant-another highly range restricted species.  After crossing several more high ridges, we began to descend into the much drier Catamayo Valley (4,000′).  At our roadside lunch stop, we had the first of many Peruvian Pygmy Owl sightings and quick looks at a loud pair of Superciliated Wrens.  We then transited through Loja (6,630′), over another 8,000′ pass, and began our steep descent to Zamora near the eastern base of the Andes.  The new highway was a breeze until a detour forced us onto the old Loja-Zamora Road-a muddy narrow track that made us greatly appreciate the highway we had just left.  Unfortunately, a massive landslide blocked the new highway further downslope.  What should have been 25 minutes more to Zamora turned into almost 2 hours.  With great relief, we arrived at Copalinga Lodge (3,075′) just south of Zamora in time to see a female Spangled Coquette at the verbena bushes and both Green and Gold and Golden-eared Tanagers at the fruit feeders.

Blue-gray Tanager eastern Andes form

The next morning we were off to nearby Podocarpus National Park along the Rio Bombuscaro. Our morning hike was quiet for the most part but the birds we saw-White-necked Parakeet, Amazonian Umbrellabird, Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, and Green (Inca) Jay-were truly outstanding.  Back at Copalinga, the feeders kept us entertained with new arrivals such at Swainson’s Thrush (odd to see it feasting on a banana), Crested Oropendola (very shy for such a big bird), and a vibrant Red-headed Barbet.  The hummingbird show had picked up as well with Golden-tailed Sapphire, Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Violet-headed Hummingbird, and Green Hermit all putting in appearances.  Some of the group kept birding through the afternoon rest period along the entry road.  Several flocks moved through containing Paradise and Spotted Tanagers, Golden-collared Honeycreeper, Wire-crested Thorntail, and a memorable Black-faced Dacnis.  Back at the lodge, a male Spangled Coquette, sporting head feathers that made it seem like a miniature bird of paradise, had shown up and stayed long enough for all to see it.  Shortly before dinner, we took a two minute drive to a Blackish Nightjar roost and watched as the bird hawked insects in the fading light.

Green-and gold Tanager at Copalinga Lodge

With two road blockages to navigate, we were off early heading back up to Loja.  Then, taking the road south past Vilcabamba, we arrived at a road construction site one hour before cars would be allowed to pass.  What to do?  More roadside birding of course.  Rain was getting heavier but we managed looks at Hooded Mountain Tanager, Yellow-bellied Chat Tyrant, and Golden-crowned Tanager-an understory foraging tanager whose crown lights up the gloom.  Once the roadblock opened, it was 20 minutes of sliding through the mud to the entrance of Tapichalaca Reserve (7,800′).  Marcelo suggested we bird the main road below the construction, so off we went.  Turned out to be a great move as the rain held off and we quickly encountered a mixed species flock.  We had rapid fire views of Green and Black Fruiteater,  Barred Becard,  Lacrimose Mountain Tanager, Blue-capped Tanager, and Blue-backed and Capped Conebills.  What a colorful display in this dreary, high altitude cloud forest!  Further downslope, Marcelo heard  White-capped Tanagers calling at quite a distance.  Using playback, we kept luring the birds closer as they were triangulating the sound source over several drainages.  Finally the group of three flew right to us and landed within easy scoping range.  With their white crowns almost glowing in the dim light, these tanagers became an instant trip favorite.

For the last full day of birding on the trip, we geared up for a wet hour plus hike to the Jocotoco Antpitta viewing station.  Along the way, Franco, our lodge guide, spotted a roosting Andean Potoo, placidly enduring the rain.  Amazing to think of that nocturnal, large insect eating bird just perched motionless for hours in a cold downpour at 8,000′.  Finally, we slogged up to the shelter and, even before we settled on the benches provided, the first Jocotoco Antpitta zipped out to start snagging its worm breakfast.  Over the next hour and a half, we watched entranced as one of the rarest birds in the world (there were two individuals) hopped and twirled barely 5 feet in front of us.  The experience made me wonder how many species had been lost on the clear cut slopes leading to this rainy ridge before they were even known by humans.  Kudos to the Jocotoco Foundation for buying habitat all across Ecuador to give many critically endangered species, such as this antpitta, a chance to make their last stand.  The rest of the day was a wash out as we couldn’t even view the Golden-plumed Parakeet nest boxes due to heavy fog and rain.  (Tapichalaca receives an astounding 5 meters of rain annually).  Instead, we caught up on our list, dried out clothes, and watched the hummingbird feeders.  Although the feeders are dominated by Chestnut-breasted Coronets, they also host the highly localized Little (Flame-throated) and Amethyst-throated Sunangels.

Jocotoco Antpitta

Last day in the saddle.  We sneak past the road construction before the work commences at 6 am so that we can maximize our birding opportunities.  Just south of Loja, we climb the road at the Cajanuma entrance to Podocarpus NP.  We are able to skirt a smaller, recent landslide and reach the parking lot at 8,800′-our highest birding venue of the trip.  From there it is all downhill road birding-just the kind we like-with Nestor following us in the van.  Our first find is a Barred Fruiteater followed quickly by Masked Trogon, Smoky Bush Tyrant,  and Black-capped Hemispingus.  Both Black-crested and Russet-crowned Warblers show and sing incessantly despite the drizzle.  A Glowing Puffleg pauses close, affording us a chance to view its dazzling, sequined rump.  Lower down the road, while chasing a Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Marcelo spots a Gray-breasted Mountain Toucan -a life bird for  all including myself.

Following our transit through Loja, we descend back toward the airport in Catamayo but on the old road this time.  We are back in dry country in the blink of an eye!  Highlights here included singing Slaty (Andean Slaty) Thrush, Amazilia Hummingbird (loja subspecies), Croaking Ground Dove, and numerous calling Elegant Crescentchests.  Alas, after 8 attempts by Marcelo (we counted every one), we were unable to catch even a glimpse of this unique, dry habitat  tapaculo.  Just before heading to the airport, we finally found several Tumbes Sparrows in the company of a Drab Seedeater.  Across from the airport, we found our last group trip bird-a Band-tailed Sierra Finch.  Our flight back to Quito included one of the more sublime sunsets I have ever witnessed.  We left the country the next day, grateful for our chance to experience the birds and the land of a very rugged southern Ecuador.

The nearby Estero Soldado provided an ever changing buffet for the birds, depending on tide.  Herons, egrets, gulls, terns, cormorants and shorebirds all exploited the rich food resources of this estuary.  The bills of various species often reveal the preferred foraging technique with my personal favorites being Black Skimmer, American Oystercatcher and Roseate Spoonbill.

Following our beach time, we headed three and a half hours south to the foothill habitat outside Alamos.  With the help of Jennifer and David MacKay, we were allowed to camp for a couple days on  , a reserve east of Alamos owned by Nature and Culture International.  This organization is working to purchase and protect critical habitat throughout Latin America.  El Guayabo is part of a group of ranches in the area protected as the Reserva Monte Mojino.  The ranch preserves a stretch of the Rio Cuchujaqui and the surrounding tropical deciduous forest.  Birding was great with a mix of regional permanent residents and wintering songbirds both from the western US and the Sierra Madre of northwest Mexico.  Highlights included Bare-throated Tiger Heron, Rufous-bellied Chachalaca (including two in a tree above where my wife was cooking dinner one night), Squirrel Cuckoo, Black-throated Magpie Jay, Purplish-backed Jay, Common Blackhawk,  Linneated Woodpecker, Tufted Flycatcher, Rufous-backed Robin, Happy and Sinaloa Wrens, Slate-throated Redstart, Orange-billed Nightingale Thrush, Five-striped Sparrow, and Black-vented Oriole.  We appreciate the efforts of NCI in the area and hope they are able to acquire even more habitat.

it is late fall

the days plunge shorter

yet the sun is as bright as any summer day

the leafless aspen twigs, devoid of insects

somehow feed this grosbeak flock

quietly murmuring, slowly foraging

the male’s red feathers

screaming its cause to the sky blue sky

despite the promise of breeding

still so many months away