West Mexico | WingsWest Birding

After enduring some of the coldest winter temperatures ever in New Mexico, our group was glad to feel the warmth of Puerto Vallarta. Our birding started just an hour after arrival-in a steep, jungle patch not far from the old part of town. Highlights included Boat-billed Flycatcher, Rusty-crowned Ground Sparrow, and great looks at a vibrant male Blue Bunting. Then we were off to Rancho Primavera, an American owned ranch near El Tuito in the coastal foothills southwest of Puerto Vallarta. During our stay there over the next three days we observed a mix of thorn forest and pine forest birds as the ranch is well situated close to several habitats. Prominent in the birding landscape are US and Canadian migrants that find this part of the West Mexico coast to their liking. Quite fun to see the likes of MacGillivray’s Warbler, American Redstart and Black-capped Vireo all foraging side by side. Mexican species, such as Black-vented Oriole and Orange-billed Nightingale Thrush are sprinkled into the mix as well. A night foray up into pine forest produced multiple calling Eared Poorwills, a poorly known W. Mexico species, and we even glimpsed a foraging bird on our drive down the mountain.

Leaving Rancho Primavera, we headed down the coast. Our first (of many) encounter with the dazzling Orange-breasted Bunting was memorable as was a Gray Hawk dashing into a dense grove and emerging with an Orange-fronted Parakeet in its talons. This stretch of the Jalisco coast is largely deserted as the main highway runs inland so we were treated to some amazing empty beaches. A rocky point along the way produced a wintering Wandering Tattler and the mouth of an estuary revealed both Wilson’s and Snowy Plovers. Our next morning was spent in the Cuixmala Biosphere Preserve. This tract gave us an idea of the potential of lush, deciduous forest when left undisturbed. The area is even home to remnant jaguar and mountain lion populations. Bird highlights included White-throated Magpie Jays, San Blas Jays, and the endemic Flammulated Flycatcher. Ruddy Quail Doves were calling deep in the forest but did not reveal themselves. Several territories of Rosy Thrush Tanagers had vocal but invisible birds. After 15 minutes focused on one particular singing male, all in the group (except myself) glimpsed this breath taking bird.

Leaving the coast, we headed higher into the Sierra Manantlan and arrived at the Las Joyas Research Station. Created in 1987, this outpost in the core zone of a biosphere preserve has hosted scientists from various disciplines and countries. We felt blessed to access such a pristine area. Right outside our bunkhouse the birding was rich- Red-headed Tanager, Flame-colored Tanager, Ruddy-capped Nightingale Thrush and even a glimpse of a vocal but hard to see Chestnut-sided Shrike Vireo. The difficulty in viewing this bird reminded me of trying to find it’s louder and even more invisible cousin, the Green Shrike Vireo, years ago in Costa Rica. We headed out into the preserve and quickly had a close encounter with a group of Singing Quail. These amazingly loud birds were just a couple meters away from us in the dense understory but we were unable to lure them out on the road. Further into the cloud forest we found Olivaceous Woodcreeper and a co-operative perched Crested Guan. An open area on the edge of a dramatic escarpment hosted Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercer, Audubon’s Oriole, and calling (but unseen) Long-tailed Wood Partridge. On our way back to headquarters, we found a male Bumblebee Hummingbird displaying on its territory and, after some patient waiting, all were able to get at least a brief look at this tiny sprite.

Next day we accessed another old growth broadleaf forest at Puerto Los Mazos. I was fortunate to glimpse a perched Collared Forest Falcon before it disappeared downslope. As a group, we were able to get great views of Golden-crowned Warbler (life bird for all) and several views of the highly range restricted Mexican Woodnymph. We then headed out toward Ciudad Guzman, stopping on the Floripondio road at 8,000′. A boisterous group of Gray-barred Wrens, cousins of our Cactus Wren, entertained us for about 10 minutes. Both Green-striped and Rufous-capped Brushfinches found this habitat to their liking as well.

Our ascent of Nevado de Colima (the higher of two volcanos in the area) the following day was certainly a highlight of the trip. On the lower slopes we were surprised to find a vocal pair of Bright-rumped Attilas, a flycatcher that normally occurs at lower elevation. While enjoying the antics of the attilas, a Bat Falcon powered overhead. Further up the volcano, we found more hummers including the persistently squeaking (but hard to see) Green Violetear and superb close-ups of Magnificent Hummingbird males. Other finds included White-striped Woodcreeper, Gray-breasted Wood Wren, Gray Silky Flycatcher and Collared Towhee. We reached the edge of the caldera (this volcano blew its top a long time ago) at over 11,000′ but were unable to see the highest peak (at over 14,000′) as it was hidden behind clouds and haze. Our disappointment didn’t last long as we were able to get great looks at the iconic Red Warbler on our way down the mountain.

On to the tiny state of Colima. My friends Von and Ruth, who have retired in Ciudad Colima, invited us to their house where their backyard birds included Sinaloa Wren, Streak-backed Oriole, Ruby-throated Hummingbird, Rose-throated Becard, White-collared Seedeater, Blue-black Grassquit and even a calling Collared Forest Falcon. I could get used to having a yardlist like that! We then headed north to a hidden volcanic lake where we found Elegant Trogon, Gray-crowned Woodpecker and Black-throated Green and Hermit Warblers. The next morning, before descending to the coast, we birded La Cumbre, a thorn forest covered hill southeast of town. A puzzling songbird turned out to be a worn plumaged Dwarf Vireo. Higher up we found several endemic Black-chested Sparrows one of the handsomest sparrows one could ever lay eyes on. A group of Rufous-naped Wrens were a bit shy at first but gradually gave us good looks. While trying to tape in a Lesser Ground Cuckoo, we were instead surprised by a Lesser Roadrunner that performed well before melting into the understory. As we were heading back to the car I caught a glimpse of a different bird low in the scrub and resumed playing Lesser Ground Cuckoo. Sure enough, the bird loudly called back and we spent another 15 minutes trying to get a look at this extremely secretive species. Alas, I was the only one to briefly see the bird scurry across an opening. Although I felt bad for the group, I reveled in seeing the neon blue eye patch of the bird as it skulked by. Once again I was reminded that not everyone gets to see every bird.

Back on the coast, we headed by boat into a dense mangrove forest. Northern Waterthrushes were everywhere and we had great looks at Ringed Kingfisher, Linneated Woodpecker and even a coatimundi. Several Snail Kites kept flying up the channel ahead of us. Once in the open part of the estuary we viewed an array of herons including our first looks at the prehistoric looking Anhinga and the outlandish Boat-billed Heron. Later in the day we turned into the Playa de Oro Road. Although activity levels were low, we found an obliging pair of White-bellied Wrens, many more Orange-breasted Buntings and heard a calling Roadside Hawk. The highlight by far, however, was a male Red-breasted Chat that showed extremely well flying back and forth across the road. Another bird that the painting in the book does not do justice to!

Our last full morning we headed inland a short distance to Barranca el Choncho, a lush canyon in the foothills closest to the coast. We had great views of Golden-crowned Emerald males on several occasions. This slender hummer with the long forked tail is certainly a highlight of birding in West Mexico. Other notable sightings for the morning included Tropical Parula, Happy Wren, Masked Tityra and Pale-billed Woodpecker. After much diligent searching, Andy was rewarded with a look at Red-crowned Ant Tanager, a recluse that the rest of us had only heard.

After a brief look at the coastal birds in the harbor at Barra de Navidad the next morning, we were off to the Manzanillo Airport. Our last species of the trip, a Limpkin, was perched on a roadside hummock of marsh grass just as we got to the airport. At over 300 species for the trip, West Mexico had once again provided us with a memorable birding experience.

BIRDING JALISCO AND COLIMA, MEXICO FEB. 2010

With three of my birding buddies, I navigated through a garish and surrealistic puerto Vallarta, escaping to the south through a cut in the jungle clad mountain range that frames Banderas Bay. Reaching our desination at Rancho Primavera near the foothill town of El Tuito, we relished the soothing silence broken only by the muted woofing of a local Mottled Owl. Up early the next day, we enjoyed the impressive ponds at the ranch as well as the feeder action. San Blas Jays, Black-throated Magpie Jays, Grey-crowned Woodpecker and Black-vented Orioles dazzled us with close up views. We soon left to explore the nearby Bioto Road and thorn forest closer to the coast. Russet-crowned Motmot, Black-capped Vireo, Painted Bunting, White-bellied Wren and Red-breasted Chat all showed to brighten our morninig. A Flammulated Flycatcher appeared and proved quite engaging. Although superficially a Myiarchus look alike, it lives in its own genus. It’s behavior was sluggish for a flycatcher with long periods perched with slow, almost trogon like head movements made while searching for prey. The cast of North American warblers wintering here included a very impressive male Hooded Warbler.

Continuing on to the coast, we stumbled into a locally owned and run restaurant called El Cielito. Hard to argue with jaw dropping views of miles of pristine beaches and rocky headlands. The beer just somehow tastes better under such circumstances. The Brown Boobies and Magnificent Frigatebirds cruising by weren’t bad either. Following lunch, we headed to a nearby estuary where we watched a small group of Collared Plovers picking insects from a dried area of the mudflats. A Gull-billed Tern was a nice addition to the other estuary regulars. After the long drive back to Rancho Primavera, our day was capped off with great views of Plain-capped Starthroat at the ranches feeders.

Pushing on south the next day, we arrived at Cuixmala Biosphere Preserved in southern Jalisco. Thanks to Brian Miller of Wind River Ranch in Watrous, New Mexico we were granted access to this preserve where Brian had done research in the mid 90′s. Resident researchers Rafael and Angie greeted us and showed us a bunkhouse normally reserved for scientists (which we clearly are not). Turned out to be one of the best accomodations for our entire trip. At dusk, in a nearby grove of giant buttressed root trees called majotes, we listened to the calls of Thicket Tinamou-the only area on our entire trip where we encountered this very shy species. After dark, an inquisitive pair of Mottled Owls called repeatedly right overhead.

In the morning, we birded along the Rio Cuixmala although an uncharacteristic fog had to be waited out. Soon the bird activity got rolling with several mixed species flocks that combined West Mexico residents with wintering North American migrants. West Mexican Chachalacas sounded off repeatedly, White-throated Magpie Jays checked us out briefly and several pairs of Golden Vireos allowed close inspection. A male Blue Bunting gave us a great look while the loudly singing Happy Wrens only allowed an occasional glimpse. Wilson’s Warblers and Warbling Vireos reminded us of home and triggered a slight bout of jealousy on my part as I briefly envied them for their pristine wintering grounds. We then drove higher in the preserve looking for a Lilac-crowned Parrot nesting tree but only the birds’ raucous calls could be heard above the rather dense thorn forest canopy (an abnormal condition produced by this winter’s abnormal rains). On our way back to headquarters, we were able to come face to face with a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl. As the heat of the day began to build, we reluctantly hit the road for Colima.

THE VOLCANOS OF JALISCO AND COLIMA

The final leg of our West Mexico scouting trip brought us to the state of Colima. What this state lacks in size it makes up for in biological diversity. Making the one hour drive from the palm-lined estuaries of Cuyutlan, we got our first view of the twin volcanos that dominate the horizon of Colima, the state’s capitol. Volcan del Fuego (aptly named volcano of fire) still steams continuously and its summit, at more than 12,000′, marks the Jalisco/Colima border. Peering over the shoulder of Volcan del Fuego from the northis the taller (over 14,000′) Nevado de Colima. Inactive and perpetually snow capped, this somewhat misnamed peak (it lies wholly in the state of Jalisco) is actually two spires that frame a much higher peak from antiquity that now only exists in our imagination.

As we approach Ciudad Colima, we realize there is enough light to make a run up La Cumbre, a foothill peak on the outskirts of the city. Our first priority is to find the W. Mexican endemic Black-chested Sparrow which turns out to be quite common. A large, striking sparrow, it reminds me of our Spotted Towhee as it shuffles through a brush pile. On the far side of the summit, we encounter a boisterous group of Rufous-naped Wrens and a vivid male Orange-breasted Bunting. At sunset, we attempt to lure in a Lesser Ground Cuckoo that has responded to our tape but the bird successfully remains hidden. After sunset, we wait for dark while watching the fire in the sugar cane fields far below. Soon we have a response from a Balsas Screech Owl. When we finally see the bird in our spotlight, I am impressed with its large size (recently moved from the typical screech owl genus Otus to Megascops), delicate vertical flecking on a pale chest and, most of all, by its dark brown eyes. A most exhilirating hour and a half of birding topped off by a great look at a Buff-collared Nightjar as we head back to our hotel.

The next day we are off early to Volcan del Fuego. The road on the lower slope is popping with birds such as Elegant Euphonia,
Spotted Wren, Rusy Crowned Ground Sparrow (hard bird to see) and Gray-crowned Yellowthroat. We can hear Banded Quail in the nearby cornfields but it takes considerable walking to get a decent look. But then, as we drive higher, there is a flock feeding in the middle of the road with Indigo Buntings and Stripe-headed Sparrows.

In the pine/oak zone, a male Golden-crowned Emerald poses and leaves us spellbound. Vocal, but less cooperative, are groups of Long-tailed Wood Partridge loudly calling to each other and more faintly calling Aztec Thrushes that we never see. This reaffirms the belief of group member Jim Black, by far the most experienced Mexico birder, that Aztec Thrush (which he still hasn’t seen) really does not exist! Still higher, we discover Chestnut-sided Shrike Vireo (quite a show stopper) along with regulars such as Crescent-chested Warbler, Slate-throated Redstart and Bridled Titmouse. At a local beekeeper’s station, we get great looks at a wintering adult male Ruby-throated Hummingbird. Near our turn around spot, an Orange-billed Nightingale Thrush shows briefly along with Gray-barred Wren (foraging quite high) and Collared Towhee. A Gray-breasted Wood Wren sings but typically remains hidden. As we retrace our steps, we make a final attempt for Dwarf Vireo. One comes in from the other side of the canyon and everyone gets an identifying view of this confusing vireo.

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West Mexico: Jalisco and Colima-2/14-25/11

West Mexico Trip Report Feb 2010